Oil and oil-varnish finishes
Unfortunately there is a great deal of mis-understanding and
mis-information about varnish.
The word has had a variety of meanings over time, and even today, it
is used very imprecisely, especially on the containers of
manufactured products.
Do not rely on what the container calls the
contents.
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Some useful terminology
Varnish: is made by cooking one or more oils with
certain natural or synthetic resins, which combine to then become a
new substance. There 2 types of varnish;
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spirit varnish, made by dissolving natural resins like
sandarac, mastic and shellac, in alcohol or turpentine to
facilitate application; (French polish)
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and oil Varnish, made by heating natural hard resins like
copal or amber until they melt, then adding to a drying oil like
linseed or tung oil to facilitate application.
Today most varnishes are based on drying oils and use
synthetic resins like phenolic or urethane. Generally sold as
oil-based varnishes, applied with a brush, but by thinning to
the consistency of milk, can become a
wiping varnish. (Tru-oil)
Wiping Varnish: Similar to oil varnishes, but thinner
to facilitate application by a wiping pad. It cures by reacting with
oxygen in the air, through a process called 'polymerisation'.
Lacquer: another term that has been much abused and
mis-used. It originated in the orient, as a deep, glossy finish,
built up slowly in many, many layers. When replicated in the west it
became known as 'Japanning'. Today lacquers refer to finishing
products that dry by solvent evaporation. Mosty often
they are designed to be sprayed, but can also be brushed or padded.
Oil: is extracted from natural plant parts (notably
seeds), fish and petroleum. It is usually mixed with other
substances as a finish.
Solvent: dissolves a cured finish, turning a solid
into a liquid.
Thinner: this just thins the liquid substance. It can
not turn the solid back to a liquid.
Types of Oil Finish
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Examples |
Comments |
Straight oil
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tung oil,
linseed oil (raw & boiled)
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extracted from the nuts of the tung tree. One of the most
water resistent oils once several coats are built up.
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made from the seeds of the flax plant. The least effective
oil finish.
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Polymerised oil |
polymerised tung oil,
polymerised linseed oil
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Perform like varnishes. Heated in an oxygen-free environment
to about 500F, it cures faster and is much harder. (Tru-oil)
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Varnish (incl. polyurethane)
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varnish thinned with 2 or 3 parts of mineral spirits
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Often sold as oil, this is WIPING VARNISH. They cure
much faster than oil, much harder and more glossy.
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Oil-varnish blend (incl. polyurethane)
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Often called Danish Oil. This has characteristics of both.
It is harder than oil because of the varnish, and can be
built up to a better thickness because of the oil.
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How to decide which oil is which! (Remember names and claims, are a marketing
tool)
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Clues |
Raw or boiled linseed
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Pure Tung |
Polymerised Linseed or Tung
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Thinned Varnish or Polyurethane
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Oil/Varnish mix |
Labelled correctly? |
Y |
Y |
N |
N |
N |
Distinctive smell? |
Y |
Y |
N |
N |
N |
thin coat quickly gets tacky under hairdryer?
|
N |
N |
Y |
Y |
N |
Excess smeary even if warmed?
|
Y |
Y |
N |
N |
Y |
Cures flat with excess wiped off?
|
N |
Y |
N |
N |
N |
Cures satin after several coats with excess wiped off?
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Y |
N |
N |
N |
Y |
Cures glossy after several coats with excess wiped off?
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N |
N |
Y |
Y |
N |
Cures wrinkled when puddled on glass?
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Y |
Y |
Y* |
N |
Y* |
Cures smooth puddled on glass?
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N |
N |
N |
Y |
N |
* Usually wrinkles less than raw or boiled linseed or pure
tung oil.
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